Development and evaluation of the effectiveness of bioactive cationic nanoemulsion in protecting hair photo-oxidative damage

The solar radiation, comprising ultraviolet (UV), visible (VIS) and infrared, is responsible for accelerating color and protein content changes in the hair fiber. In order to avoid this problem, this work proposes the incorporation of the flavonoid quercetin, a recognized antioxidant molecule, in a cationic nanoemulsion for hair application. For this, formulations containing quercetin 0.5% (w/w) were developed by the low-energy sub-PIT method. The formulation with a lower polydispersity index (PDI), which had HLB value (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) equal to 12.5 was selected and subjected to the Normal Stability Test. In this assay, the nanoemulsion was stored under different temperature conditions for 90 days, and the following parameters were analyzed: organoleptic properties, pH, antioxidant activity, quercetin content, average droplet diameter and zeta potential. The photostability of the nanoemulsion involved the determination of the absorption profile and its antioxidant activity after periods of exposure to UV/Vis radiation. Subsequently, the nanoemulsion was characterized according to the following parameters: encapsulation efficiency, rheological profile, morphology of the droplets by Cryogenic Transmission Electron Microscopy and Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM). The possible interaction between quercetin and other surfactants present in the nanoemulsion was evaluated by Confocal Fluorescence Microscopy and thermal analysis. The safety of the nanoemulsion was assessed by the in vitro HET-CAM method and by cutaneous biocompatibility in volunteers. The photoprotection effectiveness of the bioactive cationic nanoemulsion was evaluated in blond (color 12.0) and auburn (color 6.66) dyed hair fibers by assessing the parameters: color, tensile break, combing, friction, protein loss, morphology of cuticles and level of melanin radical by Electron Paramagnetic Resonance Spectroscopy (EPR). The Radical Hair Protection Factor (RHF) was calculated. Dyed hair tresses were exposed to UV/Vis artificial radiation (500 W/m2) for 180 h. The parameters were analyzed before and after the exposure period. The nanoemulsion selected due to its reduced PDI had an average droplet diameter and zeta potential equal to 24.97±0.30 nm and 19.6±2.19 mV, respectively. In the Normal Stability Test, the nanoemulsion stored at 45.0 ± 2.0º C showed significant changes in all parameters except zeta potential, and the increase in the average droplet diameter resulted in the loss of transparency. Oxidation of quercetin and Ostwald ripening instability (ω3) were responsible for the changes. At 5.0 ± 2.0º C, the nanoemulsion kept all parameters unchanged, but at 25.0±2.0º C there was a slight increase in the average droplet diameter without loss of functionality. The nanoemulsion showed high photostability since antioxidant activity was not altered after UV/Vis exposure. The characterization of the nanoemulsion showed that the encapsulation efficiency was 99.8% at least, the formulation showed typical Newtonian behavior and droplets were spherical. The images obtained by Confocal Fluorescence Microscopy and thermal analysis showed that quercetin was within the droplet acting, also, as a cosurfactant, due to the interaction with the surfactants. The nanoemulsion was classified as slightly irritating (HET-CAM method), and this low irritation potential was supported by the cutaneous biocompatibility assay. The photoprotective effectiveness evaluation showed that the nanoemulsion protected the total color (dE*) of blond dyed hair in 54%, but raised the color change of auburn dyed hair in 47% (t = 180 h). In addition, the nanoemulsion improved combability and reduced coefficients of friction. UV/Vis radiation caused high protein loss and reduced cuticle thickness by approximately 50%. It was concluded that the molecules that compose hair dye, especially the darker pigments, acted as sun filters because they protected the protein structures of the hair fiber. The nanoemulsion showed RHF equal to 3.31 and 4.14 for blond and auburn dyed hair, respectively. The RHF indicates the ability of a formulation to reduce the level of free radicals formed by UV/Vis induction, one of the factors that induce changes in the dyed hair fibers. Thus, considering that the UV/Vis radiation acts by direct and indirect mechanisms and that significant changes in color were observed even when the level of free radicals has been reduced by the quercetin, chemical filters should be incorporated into hair formulations associated with nanostructured antioxidants in order to fully protect hair fiber. Such filters must be attached to the cuticle, protecting it from protein degradation and reducing the radiation input into the hair fiber, where the nanostructured antioxidants must act as a second line of defense. (AU)