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Mapping sixteenth-century costume books and the fashion literature in Brazil

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Larissa Sousa de Carvalho
Total Authors: 1
Document type: Doctoral Thesis
Press: Campinas, SP.
Institution: Universidade Estadual de Campinas (UNICAMP). Instituto de Filosofia e Ciências Humanas
Defense date:
Examining board members:
Luiz Cesar Marques Filho; Patricia Dalcanale Meneses; Angela Brandão; Alexandre Ragazzi; Maria Claudia Bonadio
Advisor: Luiz Cesar Marques Filho

In the universe of printed works of the Cinquecento we can highlight an artistic-literary genre known as "costumes books". Such publications presented the inhabitants and customs of countless regions of the globe, according to a quasi-scientific structure, to quench their curiosity about alterity. In this way, the world was shown as a system of visual classification of its "citizens", being able to delight and teach the public to identify the human character by the contours of regional clothing. The present research seeks to problematize this set of works, of which twelve were selected for a closer examination (produced by Enea Vico, François Desprez, Ferdinando Bertelli, Nicolas de Nicolay, Hans Weigel, Abraham de Bruyn, Jean- Jacques Boissard, Bartolomeo Grassi, Jost Amman, Pietro Bertelli, Alexandre de Fabri and Cesare Vecellio), since an iconographic corpus was created by the circulation of this content in the most important European publishing centers of the second half of the sixteenth century: Italy, Germany, Low Countries and France. We propose a mapping and a detailed analysis of these "atlases of appearances" to investigate the extent to which these works lead to a unit capable of corroborating the creation of a category to fit them, we highlight: the conjuncture for its emergence, the formal characteristics of each volume, the authors' objectives, the target audience, among other aspects. We would like to find out how some identities and stereotypes were built in Europe and beyond it. Since the repetition of the images over more than four decades indicates that they are not random artistic creations, but an iconography with strong conception and purpose on the part of its creators. The numerous reprints of costume books confirm the widespread circulation of this content ¿ in the period in which they were created and in the following centuries. On the other hand, they remain on the margins of contemporary studies, which go on being full of gaps to be filled. We will deal with the reception of this material by later generations, focusing in particular on the use and transmission of models by the textbooks on History of costume available in Brazil. Finally, we have created a gallery of the images in the form of a digital catalog and we have elaborated a philological study of the copies consulted in order to provide to the contemporary reader the contact with this valuable artistic production (AU)

FAPESP's process: 13/04251-8 - Sixteenth century costume books' iconography in the construction of national identities and their reception
Grantee:Larissa Sousa de Carvalho
Support Opportunities: Scholarships in Brazil - Doctorate