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Development of multifunctional dermocosmetic formulations: evaluation of physical properties and clinical efficacy


Beyond biological and protective function, healthy and young looking skin is an essential factor for the well-being and a good social life, this being the target of application of cosmetic and dermatological treatments. The proper characterization of the skin has a high impact on the selection of suitable raw materials for the formulation development and choice of correct treatment, because the use of products compatible with the skin biology, allows the obtaining of the expected effect and avoid undesirable effects. Considering the multiple targets of action of dermocosmetics, multifunctional products have gained more prominence once they combine practicality and the multiple benefits offered. In recent years, many products with protective, moisturizing, whitening and antiaging activity were launched and has gained consumers avid for innovations and differentiated products. Therefore, it is important to develop appropriate multifunctional dermocosmetic formulations directed to the proposed end, that meet the desires of consumers, especially for the Brazilian skin, which is subjected to external factors like high UV index, and that has a high prevalence of combination and oily skin types, giving it specific features , which were still very little studied. In this context, the development of biocompatible formulations containing the combination of active ingredients such as natural extracts and vitamins-like substances in order to obtain effective multifunctional products to keep and restore skin integrity is essential in the cosmetic and dermatological fields. Among the substances used for this purpose, we highlight the dry extract of Spirulina produced by biotechnological process, chicory root, alfalfa and red algae extracts that have the potential to act in cell renewal, hydration, protection the barrier function of the skin, the skin microrelief as well as in controlling hyperpigmentation and skin oiliness. The objective of this work is to develop multifunctional dermocosmetic formulations, based on structural and biophysical characteristics of skin, and evaluate the physical and mechanical properties of these formulations, as well as studying the clinical efficacy by biophysical techniques and advanced image analysis of the skin. For this, formulations based on raw materials compatible with the skin and innovative active substances will be prepared to obtain multifunctional formulations which will be subjected to in vitro safety testing, stability evaluation, sensory assessment, determination of the mechanical and physical properties and clinical efficacy. The proposed work presents the application of a differential analysis of the physico-mechanical properties and sensory and stability evaluation of the formulations. In addition, advanced image analysis techniques are used to characterize the skin enabling the development of effective formulations according to the needs of the Brazilian skin. Finally , the development of formulations with suitable sensory characteristics, with the proper balance of raw materials , considering the different skin types , and to provide security, stability , clinical efficacy and well being during the implementation application has been a challenge for researchers cosmetic sector and represents a strong demand. (AU)

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(References retrieved automatically from Web of Science and SciELO through information on FAPESP grants and their corresponding numbers as mentioned in the publications by the authors)
MAIA CAMPOS, PATRICIA M. B. G.; BENEVENUTO, CAROLINA G.; CALIXTO, LIVIA S.; MELO, MAISA O.; PEREIRA, KARINA C.; GASPAR, LORENA R.. Spirulina, Palmaria Palmata, Cichorium Intybus, and Medicago Sativa extracts in cosmetic formulations: an integrated approach of in vitro toxicity and in vivo acceptability studies. CUTANEOUS AND OCULAR TOXICOLOGY, v. 38, n. 4, . (14/11460-5)

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