Enzyme system development with permeation technology for antioxidant protection in skin cells

Abstract

In addition to the cellular metabolism, the influence of external agents in the skin, like solar radiation, results in Reactive Oxigen Species (ROS) production, this process intensifies with increasing age, at the same time the intrinsic antioxidant defense mechanisms decrease. Such an unbalance leads to the oxidative stress, to the progressive cellular damage and the skin aging, contributing to wrinkle increase, sagging skin, desquamation, dry, pigmentation alterations, besides skin cancer. Thus, products able to maintain skin healthy and youthful skin appearance are highly demanded by the human population, been the target of research and development of large pharmaceuticals and cosmetics companies. Despite there are several products in the market, the consumers are more conscious and look for most effective ingredients and sustainable. This affects directly the dermocosmetic industry, that needs constantly innovate and develop products to attend these consumers. To supply that demand, the BioActiveIN was founded, a research and development company of innovative active cosmetics. The first developed product is the Skinzymes, a blend of antioxidant enzymes to prevent skin aging. This active will be developed in partnership with other laboratories and licensed by BioActiveIN. These antioxidant enzymes neutralize produced ROS, especially, by the pollution and ultraviolet radiation (UV). The main types of products used is sunscreens and anti-age, that contain antioxidant molecules to neutralize ROS. However, generally, the disponible antioxidant ingredients to use in cosmetics have low thermal stability, sensitivity to the light and pH variation and low bioavailability, so it is necessary to search for products that contain new technologies. The Skinzymes enzymes were obtained from fungi and showed higher stability, tolerating higher temperatures and pH range. Moreover, these enzymes were developed with an innovative technology, recombinant, that allows its entry into the skin cells (permeation), that guarantee its action in the target. This technology is interesting to the cosmetics and pharmaceuticals industries, because several cosmetic actives need some permeation system and are not able to enter the skin. Different systems are exploited to enhance the permeation, like liposomes, nanotechnology and others. However, the production of liposomes requires additional steps in the productive process. The use of nanotechnology is controversial, because there is a concern about the level of absorption of these components. The actives developed by the BioActiveIN will be licensed to dermocosmetics manufacturers. One of the required development steps is to prove the efficacy and safety to cosmetical use. This will make the product more attractive and promising for these industries, featuring a more mature technology for further licensing. The recombinant proteins will be synthetized and tested in partnership with Prof. PhD Felipe Santiago Chambergo, Biotechnology Laboratory of the School of Arts, Science and Humanities of University of São Paulo. To the tests in keratinocytes and fibroblasts, we will partner with Prof. PhD Viviane Nunes, Cellular Culture Laboratory of the School of Arts, Science and Humanities of University of São Paulo. We will also outsource testing services of skin irritation, skin absorption, genotoxicity and ocular irritation. (AU)